Baduy Tribe Tour-8 December 2014

Have you ever imagined what your life would be to have your own self-sustain daily needs to rely on? From the clothes you wear and food you consume to the roofs upon your head? Wear the same clothes with the same color daily or walk around the forest barefoot. Neither traditional market nor supermalls to buy products you need! What’s more, would you survive to live in a world without electricity and technology?

Well, I think I know the answer. Perhaps, we all can survive for a day or two. But I bet, we will not last longer than a week without the urge to kill the boredom. Complaints and swearing will follow.

Yesterday, I came back from Baduy Tribe Tour that gives me a glimpse of the isolated live of the ancient Sundanese tribe. This reclusive tribal group has lived a relatively undisturbed, traditional lifestyle in a closed society for more than 400 years until the recent encroachment of economic and social pressures from the outside world. They avoid the advancement of globalization, modern technology and other influences of the outside world, including environmental degradation.

The 69 people in our group boarded on Rangkas Jaya Train at 8.30 a.m to Rangkas Bitung from Tanah Abang train station. It is the fastest way to reach the community which live in an isolated area of mountainous rainforest only 100 kilometers southwest of Jakarta, in the Kendeng Mountains, Ciboleger Village, Lebak Regency in Banten Province. After two hours of ride, we arrived at Rangkas Bitung in which five minivans were at disposal to transport us to Cibolenger, the starting point to reach the Baduy tribe. For almost two hours, the minivans drove through bumpy dusty roads. Just like its twin sister, Serang, Lebak area has relatively poor roads. There were some renovations here and there which made the traffic stopped into a standstill.

At 1 p.m, we have reached Cibolenger. After taking an hour break for lunch and pray, we continued the journey on foot. The organizer has assigned several people from Baduy Dalam tribe, mostly children aged 11 to 23, to assist and guide us along the treacherous road. It is imperative to employ people from this tribe when we wanted to visit the Baduy Dalam tribe.

Generally, the Baduy tribe lives in two separate clans, the Inner Baduy (Baduy Dalam) and the Outer Baduy (Baduy Luar). Baduy Dalam are the strictest adherents to Baduy spiritual belief, the centre point of culture and religious following and the focus of rituals and sacred sites within the Baduy territory. Symbolically, they wear only white and black traditional clothing, barefooted and denies outside influences such as technology. Meanwhile, Baduy Luar members are characteristically dressed in black or dark blue or just simple dress like us. They are less resistant to accept the modern influence into their daily lives. to outside world. They serve as the buffer zone between to stop visitors from entering the scared circle of Baduy Dalam.

Local visitor can stay overnight at Baduy Dalam while foreign tourists are prohibited form staying there because it is forbidden by its custom. They are only allowed to stay at the Baduy Luar 

At 2 p.m, we started the arduous journey to taste the simple life at Baduy. The distance from Ciboleger to the Baduy Luar is only half a kilometer while to reach the Baduy Dalam requires walking as far as 12 kilometers up and down a trail of an adjacent ravine at times.

Initially, we moved along small traditional shops of Baduy Luar which displayed some tribal souvenirs, homemade honey and traditional hand-woven cloths. Some young women were at work to weave the colorful fabrics. Here and there, I could steal a glimpse of modern influence seeping into this place either by academicians, government or private enterprises in the so called corporate social responsibilities. A large welcome display bearing the name of one the biggest state owned bank greeted our eyes before entering.

The first hour hike up toward Gajeboh Village, which is one of the main villages where the people of the Baduy Luar live, was quite easy and fun under a drizzle. I did not have to wear my raincoat as I loved rain. It’s like playing under the rain. It’s interesting to observe the simple live around. The Baduy houses are uniformly simple, constructed only of natural materials, bamboo and palm thatching, without windows, and devoid of any furniture and furnishings. Small children played in front of the house, smiling wide and shy altogether. Every time, I approached them, they would ran and hide away. When I asked them question, they would timidly smile only and hide again. Some had some car toys to play with which was the sign that the tribe accepted the outside world influence. I was lucky to steal some shots of them. 

Leaving the Baduy Luar area, the trekking path was getting trickery due to the rain. It was hard enough to climb uphill, downhill and up again without a downpour. And with the pouring rain, the road became extremely muddy and slippery. Some from my group slipped and fell. Those who wore not trekking sandals had to say goodbye to their shoes and continued the trip barefoot. It was a struggle. Every muscle in your body worked! Yet, it was fun.

In some spots, we had to cross four or five traditional bridges made of bamboo. We had to carefully step on the bridge, lest we tripped and fell to the flowing river below. It made a creaking sound which made us jumpy and shaky. While trekking, we were surrounded by an abundance of beautiful scenery, such as natural green, the simple houses of Baduy tribe, the traditional barns, the coffee and clove trees. It’s so refreshing to inhale the smell of forest leaves and soil under the rain while listening to the sounds of the wild insects chirping. The surreal atmosphere was so soothing to the mind. The natural symphony was so relieving, a cure to the aching body from the long onerous trekking.

Photos can be taken at the Outher Baduy area but upon entering Inner Baduy village, taking photos of any kind are forbidden. The mystical atmosphere surrounding the village is very present here, so taking care and heeding these customs care is well advised.

The Baduy Dalam consists of three villages, Cibeo, Cikartawana and Cikeusik, each of which has a `Puun` or influential king or tribal chief. The Puun from Cikeusik are the most highly respected. The Puun spreads the teachings of their ancestors in preserving their traditions, ways of life and in caring for nature as the source of life. The visitors are mostly welcomed in Cibeo village.

After long 4 hours trekking, we arrived at the Cibeo Village. I was lucky to reach the site just before sunset so we could still clearly see our path. Some had to struggle under the dark. Our host welcomed us with their hospitality which was quite relieving. Unbearable with our sticky sweat and soil, my new friend and I, headed for the river with our flashlight. We thought we could soak our body in the deep clear crystal water, but to our disappointment, the river was so shallow. The deepest only reached to our calves. It was an open river and no building whatsoever to change clothes. Desperate, we relied on the dark to disguise our body, and just lied flat on the river bed for a minute or two. It seemed taking a bath in this river required only a dip into the river where the water was clean, cool and refreshing. It was forbidden to use soap or toothpaste while taking bath. The night has disguised us well and we were thankful for it.

This small stream is apparently the source of activity for this tribe. They do their laundry, washing, bathing and other toiletries activities in here. They also use this water as their source of cooking. In the morning, women clad in white and black, washed their dishes and clothes. Some lined up for toiletries. I could see they bring big frying pan and other kitchen utensils. Our host also had a European knife to peel off an apple. I guess bit by bit they started to accept using modern appliances.

There was no electricity in the house. The room was lit by coconut oil fuel as fire lamp and candles. Our host cooked the noodles, canned sardines and rice we had brought in their traditional stove lit by forest woods. The room was only divided by a kitchen and the front hall we slept in. There was no furniture whatsoever. All houses had the same structure so it was quite difficulty to differentiate them. I got astray several times from the river.

Several Baduy Traders stopped by at the house to offer us Baduy souvenirs, honey, clothes and mineral waters and other soft drinks. Basically, we did not have to step out of the house to get any items we wanted. It apparently the Baduy people has taken the benefits of the flourishing tourism business to help them finance their daily needs. As their numbers multiplied each generation, relying on the natural resources seem unable to cope up with the growing mouths to feed. They need to import their rice and other main necessities from Baduy Luar or Ciboleger.

I asked the guide on their produce specifically on rice, he said that Baduy people could only harvest paddy once a year. They grow a specific paddy variety which suit to their environment that relies heavily on the rain for irrigation. They store their paddy in the barn and it is forbidden to sell it. They only consume it for special feasts or occasion while for daily needs, they buy the rice from outside. 

Asked on where they keep their money if they have profits from selling their produce and tourism, he said they gave the money for safekeeping to the people of Baduy Luar they trusted. This agent functioned as a bank in which the depositors could withdraw the money anytime and the agent could invest the money for profit. He said Baduy Dalam is prohibited to save money in the bank.

Another interesting things I learn from the guide is that they do not know the term of dating to look for their future spouse. Their marriage is arranged at birth. The children do not attend school. Their parents and seniors are the responsible parties to teach them how to write and read. Formal education is against their traditional customs and the reject the government proposals for building educational facilities in their villages. As a result, only few Baduys are able to read and write. They do not play like us. They come with their parents to work at the farm. They play traditional music only.

When reaching adults, the men can venture outside territory of the Baduy Tribe as far as Jakarta. They still have to wear their skirt (trousers are prohibited), headbands and carry their machete and white cloth bag. Yet, they are strictly forbidden to take any means of transport. They have to reach Jakarta by foot. They reach the city after two days journey and stay at their friends’ home for more than 2 weeks in a visit. One guide disclosed to us that in here, they can watch TV, listen to music, taking a stroll in the malls and watch cinemas. Asked how they inform their friends that they would visit them, he told us that they borrowed the phone from their friend at Baduy Luar. Asked the reason why they visit the city, he said going to city was a sort of recreation for him.

Despite the modern city’s life, he told us he loved his village and tribe. It was his home. It was his vein of living.

I could see the great difference between our guides who have come to Jakarta dozens of times to those who haven’t ventured outside their land. Kang Sarta is full of self confidence, more elaborate in speaking and knowledgeable to some extent. His colleague who have ventured outside even spoke some English words with full of confidence. He read and write well, keeping a small diary containing phone numbers and addresses of his friends. While Kang Herman, who has yet to initiate his journey to the other world look shy, quite and hard to communicate. He often withdrew himself from a conversation in a timid style.

Last but not least, the role of women in this tribe seem so limited in the kitchen, farm and caring for the children. I did not see any women engaging in lively conversation with the visitors. Even, our host mostly watched us from a distance, speaking when we address her. It’s sad but it’s a case in most traditional tribes in other region.

All and all, it is worth living a day in this secluded village which reject modernization. There are many local wisdoms we all can learn from them. One of them is how to live in harmony with Mother Nature. It is imperative to respect nature as we cannot survive without its generous gift of abundance resources.