Rattletoo: Taman Nasional Tanjung Puting: Menyusuri Alam Liar Orang Utan

The 4 years Old Baby Orang Utan at Tj. Harapan

What comes across your mind in seeing Orang Utans at our nearby zoo?

Cute? Adorable?Loveable?

Well, it always strikes me how similar men to this human’s closest relative. Afterall, it has been long known that humans are more closely related to these species. Once, we see the baby orangutan, we will immediately have the urge to just hold it and play happy go lucky with this cute little youngling. Well, I always want to see them in their real habitat instead of the enclosed wall of iron fences. To see them roam free and wild in the jungle. Sounds like a real adventure!

What’s best than trekking along the dense tropical forest on a quest to find these marvellous creatures? Thegroovycruising along the fringed pandanus riverthat follows it draws me like a gravity. Imagining being entertained by the amazing wildlife orchestra while havingphysical exertions altogether to enjoy the jungle wildlife send a sensory assault that is hard to fight. So, it’s definitely a greatquest to follow.

To experience such extraordinary odyssey, in fact we just have to fly to Pangkalan Bun, Central Kalimantan to reach Tanjung Puting National Park. It’s about an hour flight from Jakarta. The park is renown as the world's best place to see orangutans in their natural habitat and is a stellar family vacation destination. The park is conserved for orangutans rehabilitation sites.The only great apes outside Africa, Orangutansface an extremely real threat of extinction because their rainforest habitat is converted to furniture from often-illegally cut timber and palm-oil plantations.Poachers also roam around to capture these irresistible auburn primates. The park is also home to sun bears, wild boars, clouded leopards, spotted cats, pythons, gibbons, porcupines, and Sambar deer, none likely to turn up along the riverbank.

To quell my curiousity, I joined a trip to the heart of Borneo (Kalimantan) for 2 days and 3 nights with 12 other people. The quest to meet the orangutans have a remarkable lasting memory that I treasure greatly.

Upon arriving at the Tanjung Kumai port, our local guides welcomed us with delectable lunch consisting of local freshwater fish, fried buttered shrimps, fried tempeh, and vegetables to our delight. We feasted on them until our stomach was full. The sea wind accompanied by a faint drizzle sung us a lullaby that we were hardly able to resist any temptation to just doze off at our kelothok after the meal.

We rented two ‘kelothok’ (local fishermen boat turned into mini cruising boat) to accomodate 13 people in the group, functioning as our private floating losmens during the whole quest for orangutans. These will be our centre of our activities. One captain, one assistant, one cook, and one guide for each boat.

After lunch, our kelothoks sped straight to Sungai Sekonyer strait. The river started off lined by salt-tolerant feathery leaves of the nipa palm or nypa fruticans with tall mangrove trees behind. Our guide explained that these leaves are used by local populations as roof material for thatched houses or dwellings and various crafts as in many types of basketry. Among the leaves, we could spot some little herons looking for food. Other various birds and wild monkeys were also visible.

Riverside with Frutican Leaves (Nipah Palms)

After awhile, the river gave way to Pandanus-lined banks and huge forest vegetation of sandalwood, ironwood, and other tropical rainforest species. We caught a glimpse of several brilliant blue, red and yellow Kingfisher perched on high branches by the river. We also spotted cute little chipmunk ran along the branches, and probably the huge black hornbill in the forest canopy.

Motoring gently between these walls of pandanus fringing the river like spiky-haired stick-figures, we could spot playful troops of gray, long-tailed macaque monkeys cavorted overhead. monkeys perched on riverside branches or proboscis monkeys scurrying through the forest canopy shared among 220-plus bird species. In one tree fringing the river were troops of Proboscis monkeys, tails hanging down and huge noses drooping on the males. Their visible red- brown furs are in contrast with the lust green leaves of the tropical trees.

Crusing the Pandanus River

It takes my breath away to see these proboscis monkeys. It is said that these odd creatures with their potbellies, awkward movements (by monkey standards), white faces highlighted by a tubular nose, can only be found in Kalimantan. We were lucky enough to greet them, observing them from around half an hour. They showed up in a colony of 7 to 8 light-brown monkeys, perching on branches of the the nearby trees- anxiously await klotok to go by. These chubby monkeys are delicious preys for the crocodiles.

Proboscis Monkeys

As the river narrowed, the flora became thicker and more alluring. The lovely and thick pandanus plants fenced the light brown river. To our right and left, towering tropical forest looming in lustful green. Suddenly, the skies turned dark grey. The gloomy sun has deserted us. The first sign that rain would soon pouring down. The wind was howling. Yet, we could constantly hear the persistent hum of the tropical insects, creating a natural song. It was as if we cruised along the unknown world which gave us both thrill and eager curiosity for an unexpected journey.

Along the way, we occasionally spotted small black monkeys and various birds in the trees high above the river while our driver skillfully maneuvering his way around the murky water.I just sat there, speechless, watching the diversity of flora and fauna unfolded like a motion picture complete with its surrounding musical background.

Boats with pack of tourists, mostly Europeans

Blue Skies

Our first stop was Tanjung Harapan Orangutan Rehabilitation Camp. As with any other shelthers in this area, this camp provides a safe sanctuary for the endangered orangutans while studying their behavior in their natural habitat. Even in this natural conservation, these species have become more or less dependent on humans to survive due to the massive destruction of their former habitat. Thus, the camp provides a regular feeding for these animals.

Docking at Tanjung Harapan small port, we had to walk nearly a mile or so into the dense rain forest, some of it on an elevated boardwalk. Mostly, we had to trek along the wet and slippery muddy earth. Stepping inside the jungle, we could feel the dampness permeates everthing during this wet season. A palpable physical presence that we coould taste on tongue and a mildewed, m usky odour that filled the nostrils. I could also hear the hum of the cicadas that could rise to a crescendo and ebbed sometimes into a quiet sonata. The sweet song of the wild birds juxtaposed with the rustling of fallen leaves on the forest floor when we stepped on them and the gushing wind. Visually, the greens of the tropical trees’ leaves were accompanied by the barks of many colors and textures. Little mushrooms, ants, fungus, moss and lichens littered the floor – white, green, yellow and red.

Leader of the group-trekking at Tj Harapan

I was totally transfixed. The diversity of the animals and plants were just so mesmerizing. I just couldn’t help admiring the beauty of the nature.

We were lucky to arrive at about the feeding time which was on 3 .p.m. Tens of tourists, mostly Europeans, have flocked around the feeding platform made of an elevated wooden floor. Our guide told us to keep our distance as some orangutans were aggresive and potentially dangerous. He offered us with loads of information about their social habits and which were the offspring of which, most of it from his personal experience. He introduced us to Atlas, the male orangutan whose family tree could be observed in the Orangutan Museum at Camp Leakey.

Gundul at Tj Harapan

Above the trees at Tj Harapan

Wild Boars at Leakey Camp

The staffs at the camp laid out bananas and corns on a raised platform before calling out the orangutans by their indistinctive voice. Then, we could hear the rustling of the leaves, and the branches shrieked as orangutans moved with incredible ease high up in those trees. We could see the light brown furry shadows moving through the treetops. Only a small group of orangutans showed up for feeding. Our guide explained that due to this particular time of the wet season, there were abundance of new leaves, flowers and fruits available as their preffered sources of food, only a few attended the feeding.

Dr. Peter Mayland and His Son from California

We sat nearly an hour just observing them chewing on bananas and drank the milk akwardly. A couple of orangutans kept their distance. They were either shy or afraid of human. We half observed their unique habit and social behavior, enjoying the cool of the rainforest under the dense canopy. Being in the company of these half-wild animals in their natural habitat is fascinating. Words fail to describe the sensation.

Group Pose at the Camp

By the time we got back, dusk has closed in. The sun has deserted us. We spent the night on the boat under the open wide skies in the middle of the jungle. The skies were clear. Glittering stars laid bare up above with a golden crescent hung low. The night insects sung the lullaby. The wind whispered softly of the faraway lands of the wild. I was amazed! The night was just perfect, laying in the open skies under the stars and made love to the nature. It was a divine verse!

The next morning, we continued our trip to Pondok Tanggui. The path was almost identical with the former. Only this time, we had unexpected visitors. Trekking back to the boat from the feeding platform, an orang utan mother trailed behind us among the trees. She carried out her infant. It was so cute and adorable. I wish I could take the little baby in my arms. Unfortunately, we were strictly forbidden to either touch or hand-feed these amazing creatures.

A Mother Orang and her baby Trailing at us at Pondok Tanggui

Leaving the Pondok Tanggui, we headed upstream a short ways further to Camp Leakey. The camp is the largest and the oldest orangutan rehabilitation camp in the park. It has more buildings, more staffs and more orangutans. We even had the opportunity to visit its small visitor’s centre or museum containing lots of interesting artifacts, photographs and information about orangutans. Also we had the chance to learn the family tree of the orangutans in the camp.

Feeding Platform at Pondok Tanggui

Again, to reach the feeding camp, we had to trek a mile or so. The vegetations were almost identical with the other two camps. The atmosphere was almost the same, displaying the natural orchestra for the visitors. In the feeding spot, we saw a greater number of tame orangutans milling about as well as a wild boar and a domestic cat. The orangutans were clambering with hands feet when the wild boars chased them out. It was quite a scene. We were also entertained by the famous gibbon named Boy (the guide narrated his tale), who was so playful and carefree. Perching on the tree, eating bananas with such a humorous attitude, Boy ran back and forth from the feeding platform. Sadly, Tom, the famous orangutan in the camp, failed to show up. He was the alpha male after Kosasih retired and grew old. Until, we left, he did not come.

Path to Camp Leakey

The camp was named after the mentor of Dr. Birute Galdikas, the legendary anthropologist Dr. Louis Leakey In the early 70s, Dr Leaky sponsored three great apes studies, one each for Jane Goodall (chimpanzees), Diane Fosse (Gorillas) and Dr. Birute Galdikas (Orangutan).

Mother and Baby at Pondok Tanggui

Dancing Baby at Pondok Tanggui

The last night spent on the river in the middle of the forest was amazing. We saw hundreds of fireflies among the Nipah leaves, leaving the trees to glow and twinkle in the dark as if Christmas trees. It felt so serene to lay in the open with skies as your roof, staring at the stars and the glittering trees around.

It was indeed most awesome and unforgettable journey.