Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Trip to the Past: Reliving the Old Batavia

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2014/10/29/citizen-journalism-a-trip-past-revisiting-batavia.html

Sunday morning 09.45 a.m. My husband and I joined a fascinating historic tour throughout Jakarta, with around 40 people. The focus was to relive the forerunner of Indonesian railway track. The tour led us to three oldest train station in Jakarta Kota or popularly known as Beos; Jatinegara, and Pasar Senen respectively.  The tour also followed a number of remarkable places from Scott Merrillees ‘ book Greeting From Jakarta, Postcard of A Capital 1900-1950. The event was organized by local online community Sahabat Museum (Museum Friends) aiming at encouraging young people to learn more about the history of Jakarta.



For this special occasion, Sahabat Museum, invited Scott Merrillees as guest speaker along with some volunteers from the community. Cracking a joke or two with funky approach, these speakers offered a detailed account of each historical site we visited. We retraced the history of the train with a joy ride from the iconic Jakarta Kota to Jatinegara and back again to Pasar Senen train Station. Then, it was as if we boarded on the time travel train, pulling us back into the past. We were transported into a visual journey through a bygone urban landscape.






In one of the enlarged postcards, Scott showed us that there was a time when Jakarta boasted one of the region’s most advanced streetcar networks. Taken in the last decade before Indonesia declared its independence from the Netherlands, the picture encased an electrical tramline running through Fatahillah Square, the onetime political center of the Dutch East Indies.



The participants also learnt from Aditya, another speaker, that indeed the railway track in Indonesia, evolved more than 150 years ago.The first station ever built in Indonesia is not the Jakarta Kota or the Tanjung Priok Station. It was built in Semarang instead in 1864 to cover the regions that were rich in sugar cane, coffee, tobacco, teak and other wood. The Dutch government appointed Spoorweg Nederlandsch Indische Maatschappij (NIS), whose headquarters, now known as Lawang Sewu (A Thousand Doors) Building was responsible for its construction. And precisely on August 10, 1867 a train slid for the first time at this station with track line ended up as Semarang–Surakarta–Yogyakarta.  Afterward, NIS continued extending the railway to western — Batavia–Buitenzorg (Jakarta–Bogor) — and eastern parts of Java in the same year.

At Beos which stands for Bataviasche Ooster Spoorweg Maatschapij, the speakers took us to the architecture design that was said to be the best one at its age. It was matrimony between modern west technique and structure with the local characteristic. Thus, Jakarta Kota Station was then decided to be one of culture preserve in Indonesia. The trains not only connect cities, but also people, because through railways we can take a glimpse of our common heritage and history.

The participants also had the chance to retrace the picture from the old postcard of the book to its actual site. Under the scorching sun, we ventured into the sprawling and polluted Jatinegara packed with its traffic congestion and disorderly rows of market vendors spilling over the streets, to discover the former Mester Market. The sweltering heat did not stop Scott to narrate the old postcard from his book, pointing its exact location of the now shabby, worn out, and the poorly maintained building in front of us. Drenched in sweat, choked by haze, most of the participants listened attentively to him. Some posed some questions, and the smiling Scott tried his best to provide an answer.

All and all, the speakers have turned history which formerly associated with boredom into a colossal fascinating journey to the past. We came to know the beauty of Batavia, the Indonesian capital’s colonial past, before it has changed over centuries due to massive urbanization and modernization. The former beautiful century old Batavia transformed into a concrete jungle of Jakarta.

What surprised me more is the fact that people of various age took part in the event, with the youngest aged 8. In fact, I did not see many wrinkled faces and grey hair, which commonly associated with museum and history, in the group. It’s heartening to know many younger generations are interested in the history of the city we live in.

Mita, a graduate from English Literature, said she had joined the Sahabat Museum Tour for the third time. History has long been her passion since her childhood as her parents used to learn more about Indonesia’s long past. She said she has planned to take her master degree in history. Asked on what the reason she was interested in the subject, she eagerly said ,”I want to learn more about history in general. But specifically, I want to do some historical research about the Indonesian Communist purge in Indonesia. Like many other Indonesians, I have relatives who were greatly affected by this sad chapter of Indonesia’s history book. I want them to have a closure by my research.”

Lea, a Slovakian who married to an Indonesia, revealed that she joined the tour because she had just arrived in Indonesia last week. “My husband knew the program online, and he asked me to come along. I said why not? It’s a good start to know something about the city.”

With that in mind, Lea and her husband did not have a second thought in joining the program. It’s quite rewarding when at the end of the tour, she was one of the five participants to get the book “Greeting From Jakarta, Postcard of A Capital 1900-1950”, as doorprize.

Galoeh, one of the volunteers in Sahabat Museum, disclosed that she became an active member of the Sahabat Museum since 2003, one year after its enactment. For the past ten years, she has participated in various tours and events arranged by its founder. A Graduate from Dutch, like Mita, she has long developed passion for history. Becoming part of the community offers her an opportunity to get to know more of people with the same interests. Also, it opens an endless window to travel around Indonesia to retrace the historical sites scattered around the archipelago.
“The community offers me flexibility to participate in their regular events. I could come and go as time allows me too, depending on my working schedule. It’s fun, sophisticatid and I get to know many people too. Thus, this allows me to have less complication n in arranging my timetable.”   

Joice, the mother of the youngest participant, said she took her son to the tour to introduce him to the commuter line in Jakarta. “My son has never been boarded on KRL, so it’s like a dream come true for him.”

Taking one day trip back to the past is amusing. It’s nice to walk along old sites, savoring the remnants of Indonesia capital’s colonial past. Yet, it is sad to see many old buildings have been demolished and left dying. It’s shocking to discover that so little is being done to protect the architectural heritage and the city’s history.



Raising awareness by promoting such tour perhaps is one of the best efforts to preserve our historical sites. Sahabat Museum helps to raise such awareness, and I sincerely hope that under the new Governor and the New President, these reminders of our past; our glory and triumph, our defeat and fall; will come into spotlights. These historical sites should not fall victim under modernization.



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